Rarely visited by Westerners, Green Island is a tiny, enchanting volcanic island tucked away off the shore of Taiwan’s Southeast coast. Now a popular vacation destination for locals, the treacherous Kuroshio Current surrounding the island and its infamous prison once made it notorious for being Taiwan’s Alcatraz. Easily accessible from the port city of Taidong, take the ferry (US $30 RT) if you have a strong stomach, or brave a tiny 19-seater propeller plane (US $60 RT) for a smoother-if more costly-trip. Keep an eye on the weather though; all transportation is grounded in the event of heavy rain or strong winds, and it’s easy to find yourself stranded. Booking a hotel package before you arrive is highly recommended. Many of the hotels are by the harbor, which is crowded, smelly and expensive. In addition, many of these are older, smell of mildew and stale menthols, and some do not even offer a view of the ocean (US $25+). Shiacarl is, hands down, the best place to stay on Green Island. It’s about a 10 minute scooter ride away from the harbor and offers a package deal which includes a scooter, a night tour, snorkeling, a round-trip boat ticket, a free dinner, huge picture windows with gorgeous views and friendly owners who speak great English. Prices vary by season, but I spent about US $150 on the package for four days/three nights during the high season. Nestled away in a tiny cove, Shiacarl features rooms with mountain or ocean views. The best room is a double room at the top which offers both. Book this one if you can.

Green Island is a haven for those wishing to escape the overcrowding of Taiwan’s larger cities and a must-see for anyone who visits Taiwan. Wake up early to watch a truly breathtaking sunrise atop the romantic overlook near the Sleeping Beauty and Pekinese Dog Rocks. If starting from Shiacarl, bike or ride a scooter north up a steep mountainous road (30 min. by bike/ 7 min. by scooter). Look to your right just before the road starts to ascend and you’ll see Confucius Rock standing sentinel over the harbor.

After catching the sunrise, start off northwest toward the Sika Deer Area. About two kilometers past that, Guanyin Cave is worth a peek, but it doesn’t open till later in the day. The cave protects a stalagmite mildly resembling Guanyin, a Buddhist goddess that island fishermen and sailors pray to for safety. Soon, you’ll reach Oasis Village, the ironic name of Taiwan’s most ignominious prison where political prisoners were held and tortured. The prison is open to the public and, for many visitors, is the historic highlight of the island. The neighboring white buildings and red tile roofs compose the old Green Island Skill Training Center compound, which doubled as a prison and forced labor camp for “hooligans” from the late 1960’s until martial law ended in 1987. Be on the lookout for lizards and coconut crabs as you follow the road around these buildings to your right and come upon a sandy path that leads to the beach. Since I discovered this place in the early morning, it was a bit of a shock to emerge from the wooded road into a clearing and behold two men making offerings to a cluster of hillside graves. I think I frightened them as much as they did me! The tombs belong to soldiers and political prisoners, and many believe the surrounding hills are haunted by their ghosts. Continue down the beach path toward Swallow Cave which, true to its name, houses a host of swallows and a rock-hewn stage that served the prisoners for entertainment as well as cremation purposes. Look up the steep cliffs behind Swallow Cave and you will probably see herds of goats vying for the choicest bits of grass and daring each other further out onto the ledges.

Leaving the goats and ghosts behind, head west, making a pit stop at the Human Rights Park which commemorates political victims who opposed Chiang Kai-shek under martial law during the so-called era of “White Terror.” The monument consists of a pool of rain water with a duct spiraling down to a fountain that is said to signify the thousands of tears that have fallen in grief for the dead or “missing” victims. The fountain is enclosed by white marble walls inscribed with the victims’ names which, along with the coolness provided by a large semi-covered room, gives the place an eerily mausoleum effect. If you’re feeling famished, pass through the village of Gong Guan where there’s a hotel-run coffee shop and a good grill-it-yourself buffet restaurant (US ~$12 lunch/dinner only).

History buffs should now head back up to the northernmost tip of the island called Gongguanbi. This is an immense pre-historic fossilized shell heap created by the San Zung Liao, who inhabited the island circa 1,000-1,800 B.C. Everything from shells and antlers to pottery and jewelry has been found there.

Next, head west again toward the island’s current prison. You can snap a picture from the outside, but will only be allowed in if you do something really heinous. Across from the prison is Chaikou diving area, which has some decent snorkeling. Unfortunately, a lot of the coral near the shore has died (probably from being trampled by tourists), but there is still a surprisingly large variety of fish. Flashy parrot and clown fish are easy to spot; keep your eyes peeled for less common critters such as eels, squid, octopus, jelly fish, and even sea turtles.

Near the diving area stands a modest lighthouse. In 1937, the American luxury ship SS President Hoover ran aground on the Island when she struck a reef, and her crew was rescued by the local people. As a gesture of gratitude, America donated money to construct the lighthouse, which was completed in 1939.

When you tire of the lighthouse, turn your attention south as you pass the airport and visitor center and head to Nanliao Harbor, which is the main drag for shopping and eating. The shopping’s OK if you need a bikini, want to pick up some dried deer, squid or seaweed, or are interested in shells with plastic googly eyes imported from Southeast Asia. I’ve made a few finds in these shops, like a delicate white jade necklace and a rustic wall-hanging crafted from fishermen’s knots, but you’ve got to look hard if you want to get past the cheesy tourist mishmash. The snacks are pretty good; indulge in big seashells of milk tofu and seaweed gelatin over ice. From Nanliao Harbor you can take a glass-bottom boat or go whale watching if it’s the right season. Just past the harbor is the Big Mushroom Coral Reef, which is rumored to be fantastic snorkeling, although I didn’t have a chance to see it myself.

On the southernmost tip of the island there’s a campground which consists of wooden platforms among large trees where you can pitch a tent. However, it’s a little pricey from what I’ve been told (US $15-20/night). Besides, you can basically pitch a tent anywhere; no one will bother you. Near the campground, right on the beach, is the world-famous Jhaorih sulphur/saltwater hot spring. Japan and Italy are the only two other countries that can boast ocean bed hot springs, so don’t miss it-especially for the sweet price of US $6 per ticket! However, if you go during the sweltering summer, avoid it until nightfall. Near the hot spring is the trailhead for the Cross-Mountain Trail, which is only accessible by foot. I’m told this is roughly a six-hour hike roundtrip; plan to make a day of it and pack a picnic lunch, sunscreen and insect repellant.

So, if you find yourself in Asia, don’t make the mistake of overlooking Taiwan. Green Island is a great place to unwind and get away from it all, and makes the perfect weekend retreat. The marvelous scenery, welcoming locals, rich history, and sprinkling of adventure are the perfect combination for an unforgettable journey.